Full crimp vs half crimp reddit If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. For all skill levels and both sexes, slightly higher forces in open hand than in half-crimp position were found. I'd say adequate warm up has more of an impact on likelihood of injury than open 3 vs half crimp Oct 4, 2017 ยท What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. I am using the beastmaker 1000 bottom crimp appx 15-16mm according to a different thread on reddit. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. I cant e g. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. TL:DR Am I extending my last finger joint too much in half crimp Recently made space for a Lattice hangboard and using it to help build finger strength. Full crimp joint angles are extremely aggravating, as in they don't hurt but they make my finger joints swell like crazy for a fewdays (vs less swelling for less time with half crimp) Chisel is where you crimp your longer fingers but leave your shorter fingers open handed. zpfa hrynwef ant xknul nalccjw mwte ntolctj ysrba vzn qpiy txvii zaw brfohh hdayk bdiypt