Best crimps climbing reddit This is probably controversial but I don't think climbing crimps is even worth it. The kilter board is such an amazing tool for getting better at climbing, so I have a question to ask people: Why do so many people hate the trueI recently became aware of different crimping types like the 3 finger, half, full, and possibly other types. I wouldn't say there is any correlation between hand size and climbing ability. I’m looking for opinions and training experience. The pain was strong, and more so when loaded, just as you described. Thanks and sorry if I just missed a post which had these Open hand hurts but half crimp not This question got probably already answerd here but I am having a hard time finding stuff on this subreddit so I just wanted to ask for advice again. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. I started an open-source project to generate climbing holds for 3D Printing. Soo. Slowly start crimping against your palm and massage the area. Especially for smaller crimps and feet, where the only way it's gonna break is by shearing the layers apart (which with the right settings isn't gonna happen, especially with a bolt through it). In my experience it happens more often outdoors, that I have to full crimp. While those focus primarily on finger strength, this also builds pinch strength – an essential component of your climbing-specific training. So to answer your question, practice with open crimps on larger holds, and work your way up til you can closed crimp there, and then go to a smaller hold, rinse and repeat. Or is it? It doesn't hold me back atm but . No argument here. as a result, i cannot "naturally crimp" and it really needs to be forced to crimp. Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block: Best Portable Hangboard for Crimp Strength This compact block from Lattice is a little different from some of the other models on our list. The larger board format and variety of holds on the TB2 appeals to me, but I’m not sure it’s better at those things. A major word of caution is that, when you have a serious grip weakness, it can be extremely difficult to actually address it while climbing. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. I'm wondering if my injuries are due to climbing dynamically on crimps Yes. With the major exception of Adam Ondra—almost certainly the best climber in history—who We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. However, after 4 years of climbing with a relatively open crimp position, and being a climber that favors more open-handed climbing like slopers and pockets, I will keep the main focus on my strengths. No pain while open hands. Big hands are better for slopers and worse for crimps. This is definitely true. " So consequently I didn't and open handed everything. I consulted a physiotherapist for it; strained pulley. Lots of people on r/climbing and r/bouldering think you should never train the full crimp position (i. All the force is coming from gravity and pulling through your arm. I have been climbing for 10 years and was told early on: "You shouldn't crimp, your will get injured sooner or later doing this. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. Our indoor climbing grades vary from V2 to V10, but most of the group climb below V6. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Both the half crimp and full crimp feel quite natural to me, especially when on real rock. MembersOnline • OrbGuy ADMIN MOD As the title states, how did you all learn to use a full crimp? I believe it's an area of my climbing I need to improve/gain in. Training tendonss/hand strength takes a lot longer than any other muscle group in climbing. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Also, my N=1 is that 20mm full crimp no hanging with very strict form transferred great to full crimping on small holds. e. For reference, at my best, I could one-arm hang the outer beast maker 2000 14mm edge and can one-arm hang 15mm on the tension board on a good day, as well as one-arm hang the lattice edge for ~5sec Both climbing outdoors more and climbing harder grades in the gym will require open hand positions-- actually, all hand positions-- more frequently. Tendon ruptures are virtually always related to feet technique. Hello climbbit, I have a question. When do I use which? Mar 26, 2025 · In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: Full-crimp (second knuckle above the first) Half-crimp (second knuckle even with the first) Open-hand (second knuckle below the first). If you're crimping all the way up the route, your open-hand grip will be stronger near the top, if you're open-handing up the route, your crimp strength will be saved for the crux Resting on large holds - similar to the point above, gives muscles time to recover Pockets Reddit's rock climbing training community. I was wondering if anyone would be able to highlight some of the basic common types of holds. I have climbing partners with larger hands who seem almost afraid to crimp, going back and forth through deciding "not use it". Limit yourself to only climbing slopers, or refining technique on If you want to get better at full crimping I would start climbing finger intensive boulders, well below your max (so maybe V5/6ish) and consciously full crimp small holds whilst being in control of the moves. com It's always going to seem like it's strength that's holding you back, but at only three months of climbing, it is without a doubt technique that you need to work on. Check it out! Hi all, I recently got into bouldering and I'm having lots of fun! But the thing that holds me back from this is my fingers and forearm gets tired too fast. Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. There are lots of great climbers with hugh hands and i've known several people with small fingers who poped tendons crimping. I noticed today after trying the 10mm that I was pretty much forced to use a more crimped grip. September. Footwork is critical to most styles of climbing but especially crimps. Any suggestions for improving crimp strength? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit Hi there - any suggestions on how to improve at grabbing a crimp off of a dyno, deadpoint, or just generally with a lot of momentum? I have had a couple close calls with pulley injuries + some synovitis, so I’m nervous around crimps in general now, which makes moving dynamically towards them difficult. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. A crimp you can get away with being off the wall a bit but a sloper you really need to make use of your hips and your core tension. For starters, I added finger rolls, reasoning that in the short run this would improve my ability to reel-in crimps and that in the long run it would contribute to forearm hypertrophy. This is the best advice. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I engrained open handing everything. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. However, the problem comes when I try slopers my wrists become very very painful if I try too hard on them. Rinse and repeat the last In the end, the best way to train climbing movements is climbing and climbing, and there aren't any shortcuts for that. if you look up H type method, it helps to alleviate some of the pressure on the pulley when you’re back climbing. I am relatively new to climbing. However your body position ends up, ideally on crimps, your palm to elbow should be in a straight line and as close to the wall as possible. (link in comments) Project Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A frontierman • We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. After a few weeks (depending) slowly increase the intensity of crimps as long as there's little or no pain and as long as the pain fades within ~30s after releasing the load. , that you should always train open-hand strength instead) and that you should only do full crimp when necessary. There is a route that challenges both and I have been able to get it a few times but still struggle. Reddit's rock climbing training community. If there is room for the hand, people who crimp harder than they can hold open hand will often resort to crimping the best part of the sloper. I think you have the right idea that the best gains will come from addressing the crimp weakness by climbing, rather than solely on the hangboard. Some say "the only people who crimp are beginners, or people who never grew out of it", all while I still see very talented climbers crimp when climbing. They are the best crimps on my board mostly. Climbing is way too complex to pin to one metric. With some good principles applied, finger training can actually really help get rid of tendon soreness while improving crimp strength at the same time. I read mixed reviews everywhere about crimping. You train it by climbing incut crimps at steeper angles. I am pretty new to bouldering/rock climbing and I often hear people talking about different types of holds at my indoor gym I go to. I've improved at reeling in crimps, but that is just as likely due to many sets of maximal front-three crimping on a hangboard (an underrated variation). Ultimately there seems to be a big range with finger strengths results to 'climbing level' which indicates that it can help but is not the key to climbing hard. I am building a free library from this tool. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. I mean the reason every finger tendon pulley injury happens: A sudden, unexpected load on the fingers with the fingers in a position that adds increased load on the pulleys (ex. I've heard of slopers and crimp holds but I haven't found a good overall explanation of them all anywhere. 167K subscribers in the climbharder community. I like and am good at crimpy climbs, I can hold on to crimps happily and my highest grade flashes and V5 climbs have been crimpy. They are better for some pinches and worse for others. The Timeline of my rehab Injury happened on 21. So you'll probably hear a lot of that when you ask around here. And then during first not juggy climbs I try tobe mindful about what my fingers are doing. . Here's some diagrams to explain what happened. Oct 23, 2024 · Whether you’ve reluctantly or excitedly decided it’s time to improve your crimping abilities, it’s time to dive into the secret to mastering these climbing holds. I've been climbing for 10 years plus and I think the best step is to keep climbing and get better at footwork. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. I'm about 10 months into climbing and the last 2 months avoiding crimps completely because my fingers were constantly hurting 7 days a week while only climbing 3 days a week. The cause of my injury was plain and simple, too much climbing, too little development. On top of daily exercises, I had to stop crimps altogether for about 6 months, although I was allowed to continue climbing simple routes which used the entire hand (jugs, slopes, etc. I avoided crimps for a bit when I was back climbing. I used to use a ring grip 80-90% of the time, but made a conscious effort to work open hand slopers and open hand crimps and my strength and climbing grades have increased considerably for it. The other thing to remember are that crimps are hard. To do that on a flat edge is wild. Keep working on your openhand crimps. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) I have been climbing for close to two months and there are little to no overhang/roof v3s that I can’t do at my local gym. There is a hugh bias in your data because people with smaller hands tend to weigh less which definitely makes small holds easier. 10b the other day and that made me super stoked, but it's almost impossible not to crimp Pinky fingers and crimps Hi! I have been climbing for a couple of years now and the past few months I have noticed I don't place my pinkies on crimps. I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. Being highly deficient in one will eventually come back to bite you (although, to be fair, if you're going to be strong any any-- half crimp is likely the best to be strong at). Grades below your max with crimpy routes are the best to practice on. In practice, this requires pulling on something. I've seen so many people who are able to get tiny crimps that are smaller than a single pad. I used to be able to hit 2's on the board when I started, but I shot up to being able to climb v3's, and most v4's. about 2 months ago. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options AutoModerator • Moderator Announcement Read More » Reply reply Small_Sense8252 • This image looks cursed xD Cuz when i look at it i Kilter Board is definitely the most accessible in a commercial setting (has way more jugs and much better climbing under v4), but it tends toward a jumpier style and doesn’t emphasize crimp strength as well. It just occured to me that this is maybe not ideal. If you’ve got a gym project, put your hand on the sloper first to figure out the best position and really work on getting your body absolutely perfect in that position, both getting into it and getting out of it. I have been bouldering for 10 months, and I started using the kilter board regularly. However, hangboarding is a pretty effective way to train power-endurance and endurance of your upper body. That being said, it takes a long time for tendons to catch up, and closedcrimping here and there during redpoints/flash 19 votes, 25 comments. Specifically I was using half crimps too often (though never full crimps). I crimp very similar to the pic above infact my thumb doesn't overlap the index finger at all. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Crimpin’ coffee. Teamed up with a local potter to make some mugs with little crimps as handles. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • Depends what grade OP is operating at, but yep numbers are very high. However when it comes to crimps and finger strength I find myself really struggling. Only the kind of little triangle, where it get smaller on one side, if you have your index on the wrong side are kinda shit. Closed hand crimping won't make you stronger and significantly increases the risk of tendon issues, both immediately if you slip and in the long run as you move to smaller holds but still haven't developed the necessary tendon strength. Apr 24, 2023 · Virtually all climbers that are interested in improvement (vs purely recreational enjoyment) should implement some sort of regular grip training. ). Therefore, your choices are: So how do we choose between them? See full list on thewanderingclimber. What aggravated the injury It started while projecting a slab with a sidepull-crimp over my head. Your results may vary. Stop climbing first. In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. I (23F) have been bouldering for just over a year and am now mostly climbing up to V4 and projecting some V5s. any tips on how to increase grip strength? Something i can do while im not climbing? thanks Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Typically small hands are great on small crimps and awkward pockets/pocket-pinch combos but shitty on wide pinches (which is almost only an issue in the gym if you live in NA). Many are beginners or first-timers to outdoor bouldering, so spots that are both High damage: probably occurs if i consistently try hard on half crimps through multiple climbing sessions, or if my feet pop while I'm holding onto 1 pad crimps and instead of letting go, i bear down and keep going. Simple rest won’t fix your issue as you need an active recovery, but exposing your fingers to dynamic and uncontrolled loads through climbing is just gonna make it worse especially in the early stages. Farmer crimps were the only thing that healed my issue and I swear by them now. But that was in a context of doing a lot of crimpy bouldering, specifically with the goal of transferring the raw no hang gains to climbing, and almost always done on the same day or back-to-back days. Can anyone tell me if it's safe ? I asked the staff at the gym I go to and they said they weren't sure. Whose right? I personally am pretty new and just sent my first 5. May 10, 2022 · 1. For context, my climbing background follows: Been climbing for ~3 and a bit years 5' 11'' ish, 0 on the ape index only ever climbed indoors (but want to get outside desperately!) have climbed a few V7s but they were my style (steep overhung, quite reachy, holds were I'm thinking of switching to 10mm crimps my gym installed pretty recently. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. I feel more than strong enough on 20mm ish edges climbing and struggle a bit more with 10mm and smaller crimps-particularly where a high half-crimp or full-crimp is necessary. Tbh most of the people I know who have gotten bad pulley injuries are the people afraid of training on crimps, who then find a project requiring a crimp. If hanging your body weight is hard in the half crimp position, and you don’t want to gym just to hang, I’d suggest getting a one handed portable like a tension block (~$60 cad w/ cosmetic defect) and then you could start doing pickups Climbing holds actually strike me as a great application for it. full crimp and to a lesser extent half crimp versus gripping a pull up bar). What is a very major factor is the length of your arms: almost all top climbers have highly positive ape indexes. How do I crimp better? I have found that a weakness is my climbing is crimping and body positioning. After a brief climbing warm up I head over to the hangboards at the gym and do a series: 1 hang on each edge, 10s per hang in half crimp on the 25mm, 20mm, 15mm and a couple 10s full crimp hangs on the 10mm and 8mm. Focus on developing your technique and those crimps will suddenly start to feel much better. It is more advantageous to be have the open hand strength which will work on a wider variety of holds. That being said, one of the most prolific climbing coaches and training experts (and of course a very hard climber r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. You want to climb harder, train more and learn to avoid finger injuries. After all, Chris Sharma is said to full-crimp with his pinky open. Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Any tips would be amazing. PSA for setters: Don't use good crimps for footholds unless you want your beta broken Reddit's rock climbing training community. Hey fellow climbers! I am planning a bouldering trip to Joshua Tree and I'm on the lookout for spot recommendations suitable for a range of skill levels, particularly those that are beginner-friendly and avoid highball boulders. While climbing, I felt it during full crimps and heavy half crimps. How many crimps (#?) can I attempt before I should back off? / How do I know when to back off? I feel that climbing through these injuries has accelerated my recovery (as long as I am very careful) and have been good opportunities to improve other grip types, like open hand 3, or back three half crimp (if my pointer is injured like it is right now). Rest. Aug 12, 2023 · The best hangboard is a perfect tool to get ready for a real climbing experience, but which one should you choose? Here, we reviewed seven top options. Reply reply The holds will get smaller or less positive as you go and that'll be the best way to tackle crimps (and every other type of hold that you'll come across) as you'll get used to them as you progress rather than training specifically for them. I climb V9 and my numbers are nowhere near those. Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. I’m particularly interested in the ability to climb / set realistic problems simulating hard sport climbing, favoring small holds, awkward positions, footwork and crimps. Climbing consistently on crimps is how you gain pulley strength. I I'm mostly training before climbing, finger curls (control whole movement, don't fall into hyperextension), building from like 50% max to 80% max and then performing multiple half crimp one arm lifts starting from 50% and ending on around 80% max. How do I train to get better at… Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. I've been climbing for ~6 years (V10 indoors; V9 outdoors), and I have had a huge discrepancy between my half crimp and closed crimp to the point that my closed crimp is virtually non-existent. The only time you use grip number two is when the hold is incut and you can pull away from the wall. Do lots of big-muscle group exercises to get blood pumping throughout the day. See: An in-depth discussion of open-hand crimps Someone in a similar position to you Some discussion around whether/when to full crimp here I don't know the frequency at which you're bouldering, but try to mix it up a bit - if your fingers are sore from crimping, back off crimps. I suspect it was the rotational force on my knuckles due to the crimp being above me. zhbqzz zdzay tbmv xvpi cewu yeon mjiixc ukzc kgakmb llrcd gict hnkjrw oddiw lphakyk obsc