Death crimp climbing reddit. it's very specific but the blocks do a great job at this.
Death crimp climbing reddit So hopefully someone who's had similar injury can share their experiences. I'm wondering if my injuries are due to climbing dynamically on crimps Yes. I'm confused on when to use these different styles and why there are different ones? I feel like if I hang on a 20mm edge I can only do the full crimp on my front knuckles, and a half crimp isn't even possible? Any info would be great,or diagrams/vids that more explainable, thanks. Personally I wouldent full crimp in the gym, because who really cares if you send some 5-something on plastic. Armed with the knowledge of how to hold crimps, practice, and finger-strength exercises, you'll be We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Certain movements require crimping though like gastons. Ultimately there seems to be a big range with finger strengths results to 'climbing level' which indicates that it can help but is not the key to climbing hard. If you've been climbing mostly regular varied hard stuff, but then started projecting a problem day after day with hard crimps. Hi, I've been climbing for almost a year, and this is what I've come to understand about crimping: Try to only do it outside, when necessary,and always avoid it in the gym if possible. Climbing is way too complex to pin to one metric. Best done in a controlled setting, like on a hangboard or low stress climbing situations. Jan 9, 2023 · I think this one stems from the flawed but understandable comparison climbers tend to make between dynamic climbing and sloppy climbing. Both the half crimp and full crimp feel quite natural to me, especially when on real rock. Now it's more or less on 90% let's say. It’s been about 3 days since I’ve climbed and I climbed about 2. Someone with more of a I think it is important to take into account your body weight and height, and even your ape, when comparing things like one arm hangs on an edge to your climbing grade. The stronger the muscle bellies, the I crimp very similar to the pic above infact my thumb doesn't overlap the index finger at all. You'll have to full crimp sometimes, and it becomes more likely to cause injury if its the ONLY thing you do. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. After all, Chris Sharma is said to full-crimp with his pinky open. I climb V9 and my numbers are nowhere near those. Likely broke vertebrae and died quickly. The big difference in roped climbing vs MTB is that death is almost always a potential consequence of certain mistakes, even if you only top rope. If you needed it to get over a crux on an amazing route outside, I probably would then. Especially in less controlled situations (ie while trying hard on a climb). I've tried to switched to open-hand crimping and can kinda remember to do it on easy stuff where I'm not 100% focusing on making the moves, but when I actually get to climbing hard it never even crosses my mind and I find myself closed crimping again. Feb 7, 2014 · That said, sometimes you have to use the death crimp, so gradually building up crimp strength is important too. I've been wondering about crimping poistion and the feeling of crimping and finally decided to ask. I believe this has caused me to have an over reliance on half crimp and that may be contributing to my tweaky feeling. I’ve just started getting into more crimpy projects and I have pain in 6 of the joints closest to my fingertips. Depends what grade OP is operating at, but yep numbers are very high. They are characterized by their narrow width and typically have a small edge or lip that climbers can grasp with their fingertips. Apparently the 20mm edge size is a good baseline standard for measuring finger strength. Don't death crimp 100x in a row. For instance, if someone had weak "half crimp" it would be better to just add a few crimp climbs to their progression rather than go straight to hangboard because of the factors mentioned above. Hello, As the title states, whenever I crimp (half or full), I feel pain on the dorsal (top/back/non palmside) side of my left middle finger DIP joint (top knuckle). (For a global reference of strength I’ll say my max grade on 2016 moonboard is V7 and can briefly hang from 6 mil edges in half crimp). Drag is usually used to describe a 3 finger open hand grip. Hangboarding before climbing working up till I can hang on 20mm for 15 seconds without pain at all a few times. A crimp puts you in a much better position than an open hand to pull through and move off of a hold. Any tips would be amazing. I don't have pre-habbing experience, but I would think strengthening the tendons with back-three or middle-two hangs would help. Lots of finger injuries (joints and tendons), currently recovering from another one. Can anyone tell me if it's safe ? I asked the staff at the gym I go to and they said they weren't sure. Any suggestions for improving crimp strength? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit [UPDATE] Yesterday, I watched my friend fall 50 meters to his death. Tendon ruptures are virtually always related to feet technique. That being said, I still open hand as much as possible and only crimp when absolutely necessary. Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time. I’m curious how people feel about the full crimp. I feel that climbing through these injuries has accelerated my recovery (as long as I am very careful) and have been good opportunities to improve other grip types, like open hand 3, or back three half crimp (if my pointer is injured like it is right now). May 10, 2022 · The half crimp is the grip with the broadest range of applications in climbing, yet many are uncertain exactly how to perform it. Full Crimp, half crimp, 3 finger drag, open crimp, etc. The home of Climbing on reddit. My progression in climbing has been followed by an increased preference for the more open handed grip types. It seems to be the shock absorbing on power moves that causes it to flare up when not scaled for whatever training cycle im at. Also, I often won’t be able to tell where the injury is by pressing on it until the next day when it’s swollen. How would you train half crimp? I'm thinking in my board climbing sessions to be mindful of not full crimping on sub maximal climbs, don't crimp the pinches and slopers, etc. Climb different styles and climb your anti-style and you'll get better at it. That being said, it takes a long time for tendons to catch up, and closedcrimping here and there during redpoints/flash Finally topped this V3. when you train on pinches, it's important to remove as much compression from the excercise if your trying to recruit the forearms more than the shoulders. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. However, after 4 years of climbing with a relatively open crimp position, and being a climber that favors more open-handed climbing like slopers and pockets, I will keep the main focus on my strengths. Outdoor climbing seems more accepting of this style, a lot of gym climbs are set to force power moves. This is somewhat strange because my fingers are definitely stronger in crimp. I'm planning to go see a doctor to get a referral to PT or a hand specialist, but I couldn't get an appointment before my July 4 climbing trip. Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. As others have noted, the heel hooks are not doing the work they should be doing (way too much frontalish lurching w the hands in a death-crimp position) to take weight and control body direction/position. Your finger tendons and pulleys might thank you, but your elbows and forearm flexors might not. I can hang between 8-10sec on the middle edge holdingg a half crimp and have climbed a few v11s. Leave the ego at the door. 3) Warming up: I warm up a lot before I climb now Like a lot. It will feel week at first, but you will soon be amazed at what you can hold onto without crimping. How do I crimp better? I have found that a weakness is my climbing is crimping and body positioning. I also did some light finger rolls. r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Does anyone here purposefully abstain from full-crimping small holds during their gym sessions? trueMost finger pain I see people talk about is the middle joint. Anyone got some tips on traversing with crimps on a slight overhang for this yellow? There's also a corner to get around and I'm struggling to get past the 1st 2 moves. The general consensus is that full crimping is dangerous, and open crimping is safe, so we should try to open crimp as much as possible. Practice climbing open hand. Ive had two finger injuries in the past year, both tendon injuries running through the hand and down the Feb 9, 2020 · Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not significantly increasing the risk of injury (Quaine). I naturally have very very weak fingers even after climbing for 4 years. That said, in order to incorporate the thumb, most people probably have to put their fingers into a more acute angle from A2-A4, which could be more stressful. When I crimp I usually just go the standard 90* bend (red) with my fingers and leave it there, I don't try and push/pull with my finger tips Reddit's rock climbing training community. Don't stop climbing outright, but definitely scale things way back and don't crimp. Edit: I can now crimp due to #4 lol. Finger strength is still crap despite regular hangboarding and board climbing with strict half crimp. You train it by climbing incut crimps at steeper angles. Google "Lewis reaction" for finger rehab. 485 votes, 291 comments. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. I probably couldn't crimp at all because I stopped climbing for so long to try and heal my injury. . I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. This was the most helpful thing that I could then start applying to real climbing without feeling like my fingers were gonna burst. 5 hours that day. Full crimping does add a finger to the equation, which does disperse some of the stress on the pulleys. If the boulder suits me, I can climb 7b within a session. 235 votes, 57 comments. Introducing Chaela 🌟 - a V7 climber who brings a blend of humility and raw strength to the climbing world. full crimp and to a lesser extent half crimp versus gripping a pull up bar). I With a A2 pulley injury almost healed without hangboarding but with climbing only with 3 finger drag hand position and never crimping, should i start light half-crimp hangboarding or it's better to skip it till it's 100% healed. Mar 30, 2024 · The Numbers: Free Solo Death Rates Let’s start with some cold hard numbers to get an idea of how much free solo contributes to solo climbing deaths and accidents. The hyper-extension of the DIP joints is killing my fingers and I've been dealing with long-term injuries because of it. That last crimp was the death of me for too long. You said it doesn’t hurt when you press on “the pulley area”, but there are multiple pulley areas. Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. I still don't think I've ever done a full crimp on a real climb. This means you can crimp/half crimp but it needs to be totally static/in control. First, open 87 votes, 68 comments. - Avoid some moves. To do that on a flat edge is wild. MembersOnline • OrbGuy ADMIN MOD Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not Hi there - any suggestions on how to improve at grabbing a crimp off of a dyno, deadpoint, or just generally with a lot of momentum? I have had a couple close calls with pulley injuries + some synovitis, so I’m nervous around crimps in general now, which makes moving dynamically towards them difficult. Since climbing also uses the hands/forearm strength, it's harder to get a grasp of how much climbing volume and intensity you need and if you need any additional hangboard/no hang stimulus to continue progress. Should I be worried? Tried taping the fingers together when climbing and i definitely climb worse now. When it comes to rock climbing as a whole, it is a generally safe sport. But after paying to make a training plan, I'm left feeling bummed by the limitation of only being able to use workouts they provide. I do also climb 4F open when possible but it isn’t as strong as my half crimp. We imagine cutting feet on every move, ugly jerky movement, and generally forgoing technique in favor of dynoing. Im 5’9”, 160lbs, +3” ape. Having wrecked a several of my pulleys up Icicle canyon, I recommend taking some time off and icing your finger/hand in a cold water bath for a few minutes each day. I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options AutoModerator • Moderator Announcement Read More » Reply reply Small_Sense8252 • This image looks cursed xD Cuz when i look at it i The first week I did no climbing but I did some half-crimp hangs, which didn't aggravate it, and some light 3 finger drag hangs with my feet on the ground. I performed CPR until EMS arrived but it was too late. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees and the pinky will be straight, simply because it’s shorter. The answer to this is the same as most things about improving climbing: climb more. This is hilarious to me, since I can't hang on a 20mm I witnessed an unknown experienced climber wearing a helmet pull 2 cams and deck and hit her head. Often after I fall off a boulder or a route, I realize that I wasn't crimping as I was trying the final move. I try my hardest to reduce my momentum while trying to grab a crimp, but sometimes it just Anyone else experienced a finger injury with no pain on an active hold but pain upon touch/pressure to the area? Not directly to your question, but the pair of Alpinist podcasts titled "Death in Climbing" with David Roberts is worth listening to--he talks not just about people dying in the mountains, but also how living climbers respond to it and to the question of their own mortality and relationship with risk. In this case you are doing 5x more than you've adapted to. This is exactly why people perform the closed/full crimp position, increased strength. it's very specific but the blocks do a great job at this. It's great if you want to pick exercises from their app to support your climbing. Pretty mad, right? Annually there are around 30 Reddit's rock climbing training community. Half crimp usually injures A3 or A4. There is a route that challenges both and I have been able to get it a few times but still struggle. also, don't choke up on the block I'm mostly training before climbing, finger curls (control whole movement, don't fall into hyperextension), building from like 50% max to 80% max and then performing multiple half crimp one arm lifts starting from 50% and ending on around 80% max. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. Oct 29, 2020 · For climbing, this means building up our strength and resilience to the full crimp position in a methodical and controlled manner. Feel around. Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. I base my level training half crimp on the index finger position. I don't recommend putting your fingers in hyperextended position unless you want to develop nasty injuries. According to a UK study UK, you have more chances dying running or playing tennis while dying rock climbing. Keep working on your openhand crimps. Using a 19mm crimp grip on The Beta Blocks, she astounded everyone by setting a new female record with a 200lbs deadlift! Her achievement is a testament I am also weak on pinches and slopers so perhaps half crimp would transfer. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. I think that grip is tempting in the context of a hangboard, under light to moderate, static load. And then during first not juggy climbs I try tobe mindful about what my fingers are doing. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. Surely you have hit a hold open-handed and found yourself stuck. For some reason, maybe it’s my relatively short stubby fingers, I cannot Open-handed crimping is not a panacea for injury-free climbing; it merely redirects the stresses of pulling on small holds to different parts of the body. So you'll probably hear a lot of that when you ask around here. Climbing for 3 years. The big misconception is that dynamic climbing has to be sloppy and therefore must be less efficient and less safe than static climbing. These types of holds require strong finger strength and precise technique. There will be a million more to climb-- if you don't get hurt. , that you should always train open-hand strength instead) and that you should only do full crimp when necessary. See that sideways paddle dyno to the one-arm shoulder catch? That downward movement to the shitty box? The heel-toe cam of death? Yeah, fuck that boulder. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Seems like the W dies are about $40 cheaper per set, and the U dies usually have a hex pattern crimp whereas the W-dies are square or rounded? My biggest concern is a clean crimp exterior without any protrusions from the lugs that could perforated the heatshrink tubing that gets applied to each lug. Proud Moment Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Evelyn_Price • nice send! very controlled Reply reply arrowpulledback • I’ve been climbing/training for about 2 years now and I’ve been progressing nicely for someone who started over the age of 30. When do I use which? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Typically this means using a hangboard 1-2x/week with a slow and steady progression. I mean the reason every finger tendon pulley injury happens: A sudden, unexpected load on the fingers with the fingers in a position that adds increased load on the pulleys (ex. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. During the second week I climbed, but I buddy taped my ring finger to the pinky finger and I started off with some easier climbing. Or would you do dedicated hangboard sessions in half crimp? As many have said, if a beginner even had more work capacity it's better to spend that work capacity on more climbing as opposed to hangboard or no hangs. Building the robustness of the structures in our hand that the full crimp stresses takes patience, consistency, and time. I have climbing partners with larger hands who seem almost afraid to crimp, going back and forth through deciding "not use it". I noticed, that I'm basically full crimping everything and as soon as there are pinches, or holds, where it's beneficial to pinch with your thumb, I'm feeling quite weak and mostly decide to full crimp them too. The absence of the 4th finger is significant enough to warrant a separate name. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Your crimp stress could spike by 500% from this week to last. Only have trouble on the left hand but included both sides for reference. I continued climbing with the crimp/half-crimp grips, and reintroduced open/pocket grips once the (initially, severe) pain had gone away. The crimp applies a lot more force to the hold, you can keep your hips much further into the wall and get far better extension and control in your reach to the next hold. It’s worth pointing out though, that if by ‘crimp’ you mean ‘be able to keep yourself on the wall with decent footholds’, then simply climbing more will do the trick. For my warm up, I do 1 sub max repeater set of 7-3. Crimping is just something you do in climbing though and you shouldn't need to avoid it, rather learn when to actually crimp. Full crimping in the gym is no more or less dangerous than full crimping outside. Took ~3mo to feel a bit comfortable open-handed, and about 6mo total to full recovery. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. Don't throw to that shoulder catch 100x in a row. With a 5-year climbing journey and a deadlift PR of 2 plates using a regular grip, Chaela decided to challenge herself with The Beta. For climbing it really depends on the type of climbing you're doing and in what circumstances, which is why actively thinking about risk is so important in climbing. I think it's entirely useless in any practical application, save the least pleasant of slab climbs. There are a couple of points I've noticed though: - My pinky is fairly short and I'm pretty much completely unable to extend my DIP joint when full crimping - I feel I have much more freedom of movement in a Reddit's rock climbing training community. I hope to make a more detailed post in the future but want to caution those enjoying the great sport of climbing. Closing off that grip provides more options to apply power. trueI recently became aware of different crimping types like the 3 finger, half, full, and possibly other types. e. 1. And yes we are scared of falling. crimp and pinch blocks are very functional but others are correct in that shoulder compression is a large part of practical climbing on pinches. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. Dedicated to increasing all our… We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This is bad, because injury risk is the delta between what you are doing and what you've adapted to. Lots of people on r/climbing and r/bouldering think you should never train the full crimp position (i. Been climbing for a few years. Life can come and go too quick Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort Hey I’m a new climber and I was wondering if people had some wisdom to share and what you wish you knew when you started rock climbing. Closed hand crimping won't make you stronger and significantly increases the risk of tendon issues, both immediately if you slip and in the long run as you move to smaller holds but still haven't developed the necessary tendon strength. Open hand can still injure A2. I generally half crimp unless im pulling on a super tiny sharp crimp which i will full crimp, and I'll never full crimp on something that isn't positive. Reddit's rock climbing training community. ocqqfvbiqxkhnjfiamclmrrdvnktggvkmemhkwmsglkasldyrnbjtjhqgnhcxfnfbuhcuwkjb