Rappelling with atc and prusik This technique involves using a friction hitch, specifically the Prusik knot, to create a hands-free safety system that engages automatically if the rappeller loses control of their descent. 2. They can slide up and down easily, but lock around the rope when weighted. If all else fails, the tag end of the rope runs through the main carabiner attached to my bridge. Testing without Aug 21, 2020 · Rappelling with a Prussik works, but over time you’ll wear the rope more due to friction. Order now and stay safe on the mountain! Jul 19, 2020 · When hanging from my prusik id lean forward and feed my bight of rope through my atc, clip in a carabiner. You can can rig an ATC guide as you're imagining for use as an ascender, and quite effectively, but trying to rappel in that configuration is going to be very frustrating, if not downright dangerous. Four types of prusik knot Aug 23, 2023 · In this illustrated guide, we teach you how to tie a Prusik Knot, explain what situations it's best used in, and cover its advantages and disadvantages. The term prusik describes the loop of the cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself. That’s my opinion anyway. Lastly, three wraps on a prusik (aka the “improved prusik”) is best practice on thinner ropes, or if you’re traversing an area on a single strand fixed line. Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. If the first hitch fails, the ”third hand” on the brake strand only needs to provide enough friction for ATC to stop me. Rappelling with a Mega or Giga Jul - your thoughts? The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). My planned setup is 40’ of sterling htp 9mm and either a figure 8 or an atc device. This loop of cord is then wrapped around the rope as a prusik hitch, which is then clipped to the leg A prussik knot is one of the easiest and most important knots that you can tie while rappelling. This is a safer way to utilize an ATC in tree climbing, as mentioned earlier I'm uncomfortable with the idea of descending out of a tree on a system that doesn't have hands off stop. The prusik isn’t meant to take the weight of the climber, just enough to break the rappel while still relying on the rappel device, carabiner, belay loop to bear the weight. I rappel with a Grigri+. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. Jun 22, 2019 · 7 Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear? Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i. Here are some common ones, listed in increasing order of cost and/or weight: Garda hitch prusik plaquette style belay device (like a Black Diamond ATC Guide or On that note, I've been told by some people that my prusik should go below the ATC, as long as the ATC is extended, while other people have told me the prusik should go above the ATC. This article explains how to ascend a rope using prusiks, assuming that you already know how to tie one. May 30, 2021 · The prusik knot is used for an effective prusik rappel backup, but can slip if you grip it to strong. Jun 21, 2024 · An Autoblock knot is a friction hitch that can grip in any direction. This rappelling tutorial will show how to set up a rappel and build an Lowering a climbing partner is among the most common situations leading to injuries and rescues reported in Accidents in North American Mountaineering, whether it’s lowering a climber after she tops out on a sport route or a partner in difficulty on a multi-pitch climb. The + has a top rope mode which minimizes spring tension, and makes is brake the rope instantly. Prusik - Friction Feb 3, 2019 · The progress capture (aka ratchet), is a critical part of a hauling system. It goes below a rappel device and moves down the rope during a descent. I teach how to tie, check, and use a Prusik hitch as a safety belay backup. The prusik would stay on the rope and pull the atc up from the guide loop. Using oplux 8mm, Sterling Hollow Block autoblock (French prusik) below the ATC and every combination of seven different tube style belay/rappel devices and six different carabiners. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. If you don’t know how to tie a prusik knot, you can learn here. Fix the middle of your rope. There are 4 models of Grigri. One of the nice features of the Prusik knot is that there is no need to worry about adjusting how tight the knot is - like the Hedden, this occurs automatically. This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills needed to do a simple rappel with simple gear. I wouldn’t choose a Prussik knot for rappelling though- there are better knots for that. In this configuration, I have double brakes and double the rappel devices. A thinner line will lock hard, and a wider line will not lock at all. Abstract This paper explores various common practices for backing up a rappel and tests the efficacy of each. Is there a major difference? Prusik Knot. The biggest disadvantage with both of these is that it takes extra time to put them together. Jul 18, 2023 · Climber remains secured to anchor via the PAS, but has prepared the ATC and Prusik knot rappel system. Every climber should know it, because you never know when you're going to need it. Quick Tying Guide: Autoblock Knot Usage The VT 6/1 Prusik, also known as the Asymmetrical Prusik, is a specialized friction hitch used in climbing and rescue to grip a rope for ascending, descending, or safety backup. I was curious if there was a "perfect" way to do it or if it was to the climber Dec 10, 2013 · Tying a third hand (which usually involves an autobloc hitch or a prussik hitch) enables you to easily back-up your rappel so you can release your brake hand whilst rappelling without losing control and/or suffering potentially dire consequences. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. Think of it as a Lifeguard and Rappelling backups are an ongoing topic. Avoiding grabby rappel backups like the prusik hitch allows you to rappel much more smoothly with less effort. Oct 12, 2025 · When passing a knot on rappel, you will do the same, with the backup figure eight on a bight below the knot to pass, clipped to your harness so you only fall 2-3 feet if your prusik fails. Jun 3, 2022 · Learn this reliable system, which includes a backup and basic rope-ascent skills, to make your rappelling safer. Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. The results indicate the continued viability of consensus best practices for rappelling. Then the locker quickdraw can be used as the rappel extension on the way down, and one of its locking biners goes directly on the ATC. xlsxKISAR MOUNTAIN RESCUE CHECKLIST Oct 26, 2017 · Learn how to tie a Prusik knot, an important knot used in climbing for ascending ropes and in emergency situations. Other knots, such as the Helical and French Prusik Jan 16, 2025 · I often don't bother with a quad and use instead either a single locking biner on the chains or if there are no chains a locker quickdraw to connect both bolts (assuming bolted anchors; gear anchors a whole other issue). It does not grab particularly well, but it provides enough friction for use below an ATC while rappelling. Munter Rappel: The HollowBlock carabiner gets clipped to your leg loop. They are most commonly used for abseiling but are also incredibly useful in a variety of emergency situations such as ascending a rope or escaping the system. This ‘preflight check’ is something that should be done with any backup and should be a part of Nov 9, 2019 · I’ve done several hundred rappel tests over the past two months and wanted to share my findings. Rappelling is slowly and safely descending a rope. This will ensure proper grip. Prusik Rappel Safety - A discussion paper on using a prusik knot to backup an abseil from the rock climbing archive site. Mar 13, 2018 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through ways to rappel with a personal backup. You will learn of the pros and cons of each system and my There are many types of DCDs that can be used for rappelling. In this year’s Know the Ropes section, we will look at common causes of accidents related to lowering, and provide some Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing adopts new extended rappel and belay techniques in basic and intermediate courses. Additionally, results of particular note are: the insufficiency of using the leg loop to rig a friction hitch backup in the case of loss of consciousness, the inability of a friction hitch backup How to Guide for Rock Climbing Rappelling Introduction: Rappelling, or abseiling, is an essential skill for rock climbers to descend from a climb safely and efficiently. I want to rappel off of 10mm dynamic rope. These simple pieces of kit can literally be a life saver if you keep them on your harness and know how to use them properly. Using a munter hitch, using only one locking carabiner and the climbing rope. Feb 22, 2020 · The main downside to the autoblock is that it creates less friction than either the prusik or the kleimheist. Which could slow me down enough to not end up dead. This same long and short Prusik can be used as a belay and as well as a progress capture and haul. Prusiking is most commonly needed when: - You abseiled too far - You abseiled the wrong way - Your ropes get stuck after abseiling - If What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. The self-belay is an essential skill for both Apr 14, 2023 · A prusik is a knot, also known as a friction hitch, that you attach around a rope in rock climbing, canyoneering, caving, or mountaineering. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. What are What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) I think if the atc loop snapped while the prusik is engaged then you could be in a really bad situation. Auto-block - Backup when rappelling, we use the Sterling HollowBlock for this. Dec 10, 2020 · I’m looking To get a rappel setup together to practice with before next season, and have a few questions. If you Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. The GriGri, however, already has redundancy— it has the assisted braking cam and the curves in the rope like the ATC. <br> <br>Warm Tip:<br> We provide 60-day warranty !<br> If you have any questions, please contact us and we will reply within 24 hours<br> Dec 19, 2013 · The prusik-hitch self belay technique can be used to help protect a rappeller from losing control of a rappel. The rope will be fed through both sides of the ATC device (parallel). Included: Rappelling gear list, what is rappelling, rappelling styles and more! May 25, 2023 · Extend the rappel Extending the device while rappelling allows you to place the prusik third hand below the device without creating interference. Or use a grigri and rap down the other strand. I’m doing this on a budget for now, to see if I’ll like 1 sticking. Really depends on rope, the atc, and angle. 12 votes, 38 comments. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. Clip that into my bridge. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope (enough for it to grab), and clip other end to the same carabiner for the WAC Way. Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso or similar tube type belay device. Use the prusik, clipped to your belay loop, to hold you while you undo and redo the ATC. Releasing an ATC in guide mode gives you very little incremental friction control; it tends to be all or nothing, unlike the gradual release of friction Dec 29, 2018 · For example, many folks like to tie the prusik to their leg loop, but if you do that, you have to make sure the prusik is *very* short, or else the bottom of your ATC will hit the prusik and push it along the rope, rendering the prusik useless. One HMS-type (large, pear shaped, stamped with "H" in circle) carabiner for use with the Munter hitch for belay and rappel. For tether I just use a purcell prusik Learn the basics of rappelling, including preparing at the top of a route, setting up the rappel, using a backup and rappelling down. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. Dec 3, 2024 · Prusik Knots in Rope Systems The Prusik knot is a cornerstone of technical rope systems, widely regarded for its versatility and reliability. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Jan 27, 2021 · I set my rappel back up (guide ATC on a chain reactor, maybe 1 or 2 loops away from my harness), tied my prusik (below the ATC), and tested that the prusik would hold. The ATC will not add friction, but it can help to prevent the upper prusik from getting sucked through the carabiner. Rap Backup - From Karl Lews web site. On rappel: Remove the PAS from the anchors and slowly load the rappel system. Jul 25, 2025 · Prusik Hitch Self Belay for Rappelling Safety The Prusik hitch self-belay is a simple and reliable method for providing backup protection during a rappel. While being lowered by a belayer is generally the most ideal way Piece of shock cord and some tape is required to silence the ATC. Self-Sliding Prusik If an ATC is available, you can add it to the master point during Step 4. And that's part of the fun, isn't it? We learn many standard steps to manage risk and prevent bad things from happening: Double-check knots! Pack a headlamp! Back everything up! But someday the shit may hit the fan, and you’ll be faced with a scary and dangerous situation. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. Nov 21, 2025 · A prusik is used with an ATC to provide a level of redundancy. Dec 12, 2022 · Pass the knot by removing your rappel device from above the knot and reinstalling it below the knot, with a third-hand backup prusik in place below your ATC (clipping the prusik to your leg loop is common when not using a rappel extension). TR solo on one strand and tie knots, rap down double rope and untie your knots. Whether used in high-angle rescue, climbing, or rigging operations, the Prusik knot provides a lightweight, adaptable solution for progress capture, backup belay, and other critical applications. Aug 19, 2018 · An ATC with a safety is s better option in my opinion and while a prusik or similar tension hitch below the ATC works, I’m really liking a VT Prusik above the ATC. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. The two most popular friction hitches in climbing are the autoblock and the prusik. Weight it (might need to adjust either atc or prusik slightly) and im ready to rappel. There are a few possibilities for the ratchet. Jan 6, 2021 · I always extend my ATC (or a longer bridge in the case of saddles) and connect a autoblock to the same centered connection point making sure it cant reach the ATC. On marginal anchors, smooth rappelling is essential. You’ll use one double-length sling to extend for both you and your partner. Most people are so concerned about going up the wall that they fail to prepare for the (arguably more important) counterpart: safely coming back down. We recommend tackling these activities with the help of experts from a professional guiding company or an experienced mentor. Is there a perfect way to backup your rappelling system? Tips: Prusik loops should be made of a cord that about 60-80% the diameter of your climbing rope. Feb 10, 2020 · Rock climbing and rappelling are dangerous. (At least in my Nov 4, 2016 · If you are regularly out on the crags, then you need to know how to use prusik loops. Rappelling a Twin Rope With an ATC Belay Device: This will hopefully teach you how to rappel. Really smooth rappel this way. I've always felt fine with this method until someone pointed out that by putting my prusik above my ATC, my prusik will be… Knowing how to prusik up a rope transforms a potential epic into a mere inconvenience. Source: This article was adapted from the CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Revised 4th edition, Edited by James A. Just use a prussik backup when you rappel. Jun 8, 2016 · The two options are an autoblock hitch below the device (above) or putting a prusik hitch on both strands above the rappel device (below). That might not be enough friction to hold you. It allows you to take your pulling tension off the rope to rest or reset, without the load sliding backward. Nov 3, 2024 · The Modified Autoblock is what I generally use as a rappel backup. Mar 8, 2023 · In this article, we will go over how to set up 7mm Prusiks for 10mm rescue rope. The instructions are for right handed people. This guide will outline the gear needed, how to set up a personal anchor system, using an ATC (air traffic controller), and adding a third hand for extra security. The Prusik Knot is one of 23 essential rope knots included on the waterproof Pro-Knot Outdoor Knot Cards - click to see. *Be familiar with the manufacturers recommended use for your specific method and required equipment. What are prusik loops? Prusiks are short pieces of soft accessory cord of different thickness, tied into loops of varying length using a double fisherman’s or overhand knot. In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope The ribbed grooves offer increased friction and lock off for belaying and rappelling. Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four carabiners. Don’t mistake rappelling with abseiling as they’re not the same. Downwards Hauling If pulling upwards is difficult, you can re-direct the rope through the anchor to change the hauling direction. Climbers and hikers use it for rappelling as a safety back-up knot. . Nov 26, 2012 · Climbing is dangerous. I created the following guide to teach everything you have to know to use one. WARNING: Getting off the couch is inherently dangerous! You must assume all the risk prior to embarking on an adventure. These include Rescue 8s (easy to tie off, but large and single purpose), tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC (tiny and they can be used for lead belaying), and devices with moving parts like the CMC MPD, Petzl I'D, and Grigris. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. Smaller locking carabiners are not suitable for this application. What’s the best way to rappel on a rad line? I know petzl says you can use a Reverso with 2 carabiners, or some people say using an atc alpine or microjul works, and some people even recommend a canyoneering plate like a Grivel scream, but none of these are assisted and you’d still need a backup/3rd hand, and it sounds like prusiks aren’t recommended (but some people use them anyway Dec 28, 2023 · Rappelling in rock climbing is an exciting activity that involves descending an artificial climbing wall or rock face with ropes, anchors, rappel devices, and other necessary equipment. 1. You are over complicating this. I would not use a lineman's loop or leg loop of a climbing harness for the autoblock connection. Prusik Knot The Prusik knot is THE climbing knot that everything else is compared to. Prusik Hitch Knot Tying Instructions Make a sling of cordage (no more than 1/2 the diameter of main rope). Learn how here. Under most conditions, a standard four-coil Prusik (as shown at left) is the standard choice. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. In addition, via friction hitches, friction allows you to grip the climbing rope, which is super useful in various contexts like hauling and ascending. It then cinches the rappel rope when the climber stops. With my Mantis I’ve been using a short bridge of some sort (sling currently) and running my VT Prusik safety to the Amsteel bridge. In this intro to rappelling guide, we assume that you are learning how to do a single pitch rappel with one rope. Is it safe to use a 4mm cord for my French Prusik auto-block knot? There is a similar History The Prusik Knot is a friction hitch used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, commonly applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. Now let’s get into the guts of how to stay safe up high while rappelling! Use a Prusik A prusik is a length of accessory cord with both ends tied together using a fisherman’s knot to form a loop. Frank. Sep 17, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. Couple questions from what I’ve found Sep 22, 2019 · Descent (rappel) Petzl ATC, Autoblock backup below, short bridge. The Autoblock knot is also known as the French Prusik knot. In this video I show how a prusik cord can fail and how to avoid it. I’m completely out of my element when it comes to ice climbing so there’s that disclaimer. A climber will often attach a carabiner to a prusik. Do you have the skills to get yourself and your partner back alive? Rappelling is another essential skill when you're out in the wilderness and a fantastic gateway to moving on steep terrain. edit: Also you have an ascender but not a grigri? Nov 12, 2021 · The SEWN TRC Prusik Cord Loop is a strong and durable tool for climbing, rappelling, and rescue. The 2 prusik mode is really your only other option for ascending a dual strand. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). e. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Dec 11, 2020 · A complete guide to all things rappelling gear. Some people prefer to have the prusik on their leg loop, others use the belay loop. That being said, in the canyoneering community which I am far more involved with, almost everyone I know uses a VT Prusik. Here are the tying steps and tips. Or use the atc and back up the rap with a prusik on the single rope. Aug 17, 2024 · Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Feb 7, 2017 · Using a prusik hitch is one of the oldest climbing techniques around. Principal use is allowing a rope to be climbed - ascending or "Prusiking". For example, friction helps you belay your partner and descend via rappelling with more control. It’s an increasingly popular extreme sport demanding lots of preparation, knowledge, and physical readiness. While climbing hand hanging, the atc merely works as tender for the prusik, I keep about 2ft of slack on the brake strand to work with. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent A prusik (also known as a friction hitch) is a short piece of cord which can be wrapped around your climbing rope to add friction. Apr 29, 2023 · In rock climbing, friction is your friend. Scroll down to see the Animated Prusik Knot. MtnRescueStandards. Extended Rappel w/ ATC: Clip the HollowBlock to your belay loop with a small, locking carabiner. The dual prusik seems difficult at first, but after you've done it a few time you'll hone in on the set up that is ideal for your reach, and you'll get better at not wasting effort. It’s possible this Apr 4, 2008 · Here's a climber about to rappel out of a tree on a doubled rope using a tethered ATC with prusik back-up. The overwhelming top answer for why is that it is far easier to unweight without removing after it becomes weighted compared to a more classic prusik. Also most never add a backup/Prusik to rappel unless it’s like 300 feet/multi pitch Stick to high trafficked canyons at the start (stuff like Cassidy arch or leprechauns). Secure jigger or releasing hitch to anchor, and prusik other end to load rope on load-side of lowering prusik Lower both ropes until jigger/releasing hitch prusik takes the load Remove rope from ATC and remove lowering prusik, and reattach both on other side of knot Extend rope via releasing hitch/jigger until ATC again has the load Oct 16, 2019 · My latest find is using a VT prusik above a petzl ATC that also doubles as a tender. Mar 9, 2021 · Home - Climb - Abseiling Safely: The Complete Guide on How to Rappel Proper abseiling technique is a valuable skill for every rock climber and mountaineer to have in their pocket. Girth-hitch the sling to your partner’s belay loop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited: Sep 24, 2019 Jun 3, 2019 · Set up a static rope off one of the bolts (using one of the locking biners already in use for the main anchor), and use a grigri to lower yourself until the Prusik engages the ATC and makes the rappel device taut. When rappelling, why would you put a prusik/autoblock below the rappel device instead of above it? On a canyoneering trip this weekend with a buddy who is a proficient climber, he insisted the best way to use an autoblock is below the rappel device on the brake strand, with the autoblock clipped to a leg loop. do the opposite if you are lef… Sep 14, 2021 · How do you rappel if you drop your ATC? There are three primary methods for rappelling without a traditional belay device: Pursuing a single rope rappel with your partner, using only one belay device. Compared to the standard Prusik Knot, it offers a stronger grip with fewer wraps due to its asymmetrical design, making it ideal for high-tension systems. Then i would just slide my prusik down to where i could unclip it and clip it into my lineman loops. It is used in climbing and mountaineering, search and rescue, and much more. 8. Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. Make sure that the knot in your prusik loop is offset to prevent the carabiner from resting directly on the knot. Slide and grip knot used for climbing a static rope. I’m using a Sterling hollowblock but you can use just about any climbing rated Prusik cord for the autoblock. As well as putting the load on the proper device (atc) not the friction hitch. May 28, 2020 · In this video you will see 3 different progress capture devices including: ATC Guide, Prusik Minding Pulley, and the Micro Traxion. About prusik/autoblock : below ATC, above ATC, ATC attached to a sling to your belaying loop Hi! I was curious to know how redditor are doing your rappel : I've learned to have a prusik knot above my ATC as this image but I've seen others technique to do it. The term "Prusik" refers to both the loops of cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. In this article, I Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. Should I backup my rappel - Comments from climbers reproduced in Dawn's FAQ regarding backing up an abseil with a prusik (or similar) knot, above or below the belay device. This can be remedied by adding more ‘wraps’ of the autoblock around your rappel ropes and by checking your autoblock’s ability to ‘grab’ the rope before you start your rappel. Tie a Girth Hitch around the main rope. Nov 20, 2025 · How to Stay Safe When Rappelling Knowing how to use the ATC to rappel is just the beginning. asoieeku hpmxke vbpr dndm zdge mzxuop rfduk cuhlosdzj mbkko yyeeer ytly eying gtirqa rprilj alybc